I sand until you get 2 "high spots" on the panel. You also never want to sand with sponges because they will follow your surface and sand the dips just as well as the high spots. You never want to sand with sandpaper on your hands because that will put gouges in the paint where your fingers are. Blockingīlocking is the process of using sanding blocks to even out the surface. For example, if your base primer is gray, but you've used black epoxy to cover pinholes, you should use red oxide for the guide coat. And have it not be the same as your filler that your sanding. Pro-Tip: Use a color that doesn't match anything you want to keep. That way it doesn't cost much, and the Sandable Primer doesn't gum up your sand paper like a Krylon can would. I compromise - I use Spray Sandable Primer. Some people say you have to use the dry guide coat ($30 for a kit), others say you can use any paint. Guide coat is a light dusting of color on your primer that lets you know when to stop. If you don't wait the required time, you end up with "solvent pop" as the solvents work their way out through your finished paint job (ick!). Wait the "flash time" before you dust with guidecoatįlash time is how long the solvents take to evaporate out.3-4 Heavy/Wet coats, wating the "flash time" between coats.1 Light coat to wet things (supposedly prevents runs).Spray the initial primer coat on in this sequence: Make sure the metal is warm or you'll trap water under the Etching Primer and rust will still come! Then, after it's flashed/cured/whatevered, go to the Initial Sandable Primer Coat. Sadndable primer and plastic filler are porous they'll let water in underneath them and let the rust start eating away at the body. On to sanding.įor metal cars, you need to put down an Etching Primer coat that will bond itself to the metal and prevent water from getting in and rusting. After you get the car clean (if you have a steel car, you can try "Aircraft Remover" - warning - that's disgustingly toxic stuff so wear a mask, gloves, and disposable clothes - but Aircraft Remover also removes fiberglass, so I couldn't use it). It turns out that the original paint was on-top of a waxed paintjob - and they didn't scuff it (that's why it was flaking off!). My car is fiberglass, and it turns out that there were several "loose" or "not solid" spots in the 'glass! After that, I patched some places with plastic filler and proceeded to sand the car the rest of the way - down to the light-blue gelcoat. Because I saw the paint was loose, I thought to myself "let's use a pressure washer to make short work of it." Bad idea. For those with still-good-factory finishes sand with 800 grit sandpaper (or Red Scotchbrite) and jump to the Applying Primer section. in my case, the original paint was heavily orange-peeled and flaking off in places, so it had to go. It's important to start with a clean surface. but the Harbor Freight gun isn't too bad once you clean and fix it HVLP Spray set from Amazon - It seems to be better than the Harbor Freight HVLP I was using.PSA Sandpaper in 180, 320, and 1000 grit.4 oz Black Candy (I'm hoping to mix this with the CB8 to get a navy blue for the bottom half).1 Gallon Nevada Silver Stylin Basecoat.
4 cans so far spray-paint sandable primer for a guidecoat.Lots (4 gallons so far) Laquer-based sandable primer.1932'ish Ford Model A Replica ( Glassic Motorcars S/N 1120).originally this was going to be a Summit Racing paint job, but Alsa had a sale on their base & clearcoats the other day, so I switched to them.
So hopefully, Instructables will let me edit this as time goes on!
#CANDY APPLE GREEN PAINT HOW TO#
This instructable is to show how to get a (hopefully!) show car finish with a candy finish.
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